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The name 'Picos de Europa' is
said to have come from the fact that the mountains were the
first feature on this part of the coast that were visible to
returning sailors. Whether the story is true or not is unknown,
but there is no denying the fact that these are formidable
coastal mountains indeed. There is no denying, also, that this
mountainous region provides some of the best cycling in Europe.
Approximately fifteen kilometers from the coast, these towering
peaks sit astride the long Cantabrian mountain range that runs
almost the entire length of northern Spain.
The
predominantly limestone mountains rise up from near sea level to
over 8,200 ft and occupy approximately five hundred square
kilometers. Due to their natural boundaries and striking
appearance, the Picos de Europa have their own particular
identity and beauty.
As we wind
our way around, over and through this stunning and rugged
landscape, we
will understand why the Romans were never really able to gain
control of the many Cantabros tribes and why much of the local
culture and traditions continued until long after the fall of
the Roman Empire. Unlike the Basques, however, their language
was greatly Latinised but not completely, and even today 'Bable'
or Asturian, the roots of which predate the Roman-influenced
Castillian, can be heard spoken in many villages. This region of
Spain also boasts that it never fell to the Moors as did most of
the rest of the country and is especially proud of a Visigoth
nobleman called Pelayo, who, with the help of a small group of
locals, fought the Moors and won what was to become a symbolic
victory in 722AD. This was then the birth of the Christian
conquest of Spain.
We begin our
cycling adventure in the small fishing village of Limpias
located on the banks of Ria (estuary) Ason. Here we stay in the
first of several Parador hotels we have scheduled for the next
two weeks. Parador hotels are state run luxury hotels having
been established in 1910 to help promote Spain as a tourist
destination. Many of the hotels are found in beautifully
restored castles, fortresses, monasteries and there are also new
and modern Paradors in areas chosen for their fine location.
Their restaurants are noted for delicious and well presented
regional cuisine. For example, the Parador in Limpias was once a
palace retreat belonging to several of Spain's royalty,
including King Alfonso XIII, and was used primarily in the
summer to escape the brutal heat in the central and southern
parts of the country.
As we cycle
over the coming days, we will be constantly reminded of our
destination--the Picos. Around the bends in the road, at the end
of lush green valleys, and sometimes on the distant horizon,
these wondrous jagged peaks await our arrival. This tour, more
so than any of our other presentations, is about experiencing
one of Europe's last wild places. The swollen rivers rushing
through narrow gorges teem with fish. The sparsely populated
valleys are home livestock and farm houses. As one travels from
village to hamlet to town, the impression that change has come
slowly to this corner of Europe becomes apparent.
Cycling back
towards our starting point a mere thirteen days ago, we will
have ridden through some of the most scenic places on Earth,
stayed in some very special hotels, eaten some hearty meals,
shared some interesting stories and made new friends as part of
a group intent upon exploration and enjoyment.
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